The first words I heard on arrival in Armenia were delivered with flat finality: “It’s impossible”. Nevertheless, it did, thankfully, prove possible to clear customs without a luggage receipt.
As we paused at a red light on the way into Yerevan from the airport, a Mercedes with tinted windows sped across the empty junction with a single wail of a hidden siren. More of a ‘woo-oooh’ than a wail, to be accurate.
“President?” we asked.
“Che – No – Mafiosi”.
London is bound to look a little grey, but I think I’ve spotted a refuge for reveries at the Serpentine, courtesy of the Kabakovs.
This is a colourful country. In harmony with the garish bougainvillea and the showy orchids, no windowframe is left unpainted. Hundertwasser would approve. The earth itself is a vivid ochre or burnt sienna; contrasting loudly with the paddy, which characteristically hums and shimmers with bright greens. People grow up with an innate sense of colour; monochrome is invisible, hence unthinkable.
Naino and his crew strive to keep the vintage Peugeots purring and Renaults rolling in the beautiful market town of Ambalavao. He says he’s looking forward to seeing his picture on the Internet.
Most of the houses on Ile Sainte Marie are a good deal more colourful than this, but it’s a peaceful spot.
I send this from a port, which will remain nameless, for I am about to denigrate it, and all its kind for good measure. There’s something seedy about ports. I admit I have been prejudiced on this point since a misunderstanding over my lunch money in Manaus some twelve years ago.
This one is dusty, weary, lethargic, lacking vim, OK by day but plain seedy by night. Fortunately for the residents, much of this is most obvious to a visitor arriving from a fresher, more vibrant place. It’s a guilty relief to be passing through.
I think that’s what it is, anyway. Grows on trees. Looks nice. Harder to spell than triffid.
Albert Solo’s bar is in Joffreville, in the lee of Montagne d’Ambre. When there’s electricity, he likes to lively up the place with some rootin tootin Malgasy music DVDs.
